Description
From top to bottom the emblematic Montbenault covers roughly 40ha. In 2012 Thomas bought 0.25ha of fallow land in the heart of the coteau. He planted the 10% slope in 2015 with tip-top sélections massales from legendary domaines Huet and Clos Naudin (Vouvray). First release in 2018. As per the neighbouring Clos des Cocus there’s hardly any topsoil, the main difference here is the high concentration of igneous, volcanic rocks (spilite and rhyolite). A soil yielding concentrated grapes of the finest quality, savoury and packed with minerals – think Richard Leroy. Vinif and élevage in stainless steel for 8 to 10 months, transfer into oak barrels for another four months (the opposite of Les Cocus), and bottled with low SO2. So much drive and character for such young vines, the reduction blows off quickly and reveals umami backbone, class and energy – the potential is huge! For drinking now to 2026.
Applying biodynamic principles from the get-go, Thomas continued to expand to reach 4ha (currently 3.3ha in production), just enough he believes to be independent and express himself. Most of his vines are south of the Layon river, in Rablay, on sandy and stony soils with clay over schist. Chenin and cabernet franc are grown here as well as grolleau, a grape well-suited to the area. His best parcels of chenin, including the Clos des Cocus planted in 1968, are found up the stunning coteau of Faye d’Anjou (north of the Layon) clinging into the schist bedrock.
Thomas has a very individual take on chenin. He loves its finesse, acidity and ability to reflect terroir, picking it early (ideally with 12.5% alcohol potential and yields at 30 to 40hh), and fermenting as well as ageing in small ‘cuves inox’ to preserve purity. He aims at making zero-sulphur wines, rarely racking and working reductively on the lees – a tricky exercise and a theme often debated with his neighbour Monsieur Leroy.
“I am pragmatic, not dogmatic, so if I have to add sulphur to save my wine I will” says Thomas, a confident and brilliant vigneron for whom we predict a great future.
13% / 750ml
