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Coming from the Valvignères vineyard, carbonic maceration in fibreglass tanks then aged in old barrique for a year. When we visited Sylvian, he explained this wine ‘needs the most air’ to express itself fully, it was quite a journey to see this wine transform over an hour, a truly different and overwhelmingly impressive expression of Syrah.

Based in the small picturesque town of Alba-la-Romaine in Ardèche, Sylvain has been running his own domaine since 2010, previously working for Gerald Oustric of Le Mazel. Sylvain’s vineyards are spread over two sites. The closer to the cellar is composed mainly of limestone with very little topsoil and is planted with Chardonnay and Grenache Blanc, as well as a few rows of old vine Grenache Noir and Merlot. Further north in the valley at higher altitude we find Gamay, Syrah and some more Grenache Noir planted on basalt.

Sylvain recently built his new cellar in Alba-la-Romaine, having outgrown the small space in Valvignères he used to occupy. The space is a reflection of the man himself, careful and considerate, rather than simply wishing to make more wine – with more space and more tanks and barrels at his disposal, Sylvain isn’t rushed into bottling wines he doesn’t believe are ready.

Sylvain ferments most of the grapes on their stems with only the old vine Grenache that is good enough to go into Neck Plus Ultra de-stemmed for a slower traditional maceration. Other work in the cellar is minimal, with no additions of any kind.

Sylvain’s patience and knowledge result in wines of purity and freshness, without compromising on depth. As Sylvain says, ‘I don’t want to make nouveau wines, let winter do its job (in terms of settling the wines). I release them when they are ready.”